Sunday, June 25, 2017

548 June 26 2017: McGill University sprouts statuary with some pretentious explanations as a contribution to the city's 375th anniversary

In recent years it has been my habit to walk almost every day through the McGill University campus in Montreal, on my way to a cafe on the corner of Peel and Sherbrooke street, where a group of amiable Lebanese and Vietnamese lads do their utmost to ensure that the coffee they serve in Cafe Castel is the best in the city. 

Summer is the time in Montreal when construction projects break out with a vengeance, and this year, perhaps because the city is celebrating its 375th anniversary, construction has been more noticeable than usual.  Of course there seems to be no particular reason why they are celebrating their 375th, except that Mayor Denis Coderre wants to ride on the coattails of Canada's own 150th anniversary (which also seems to have been dragged out of some cupboard at random!)  to get a bit of publicity for the city. 
Sherbrooke street these days is ablaze with the colour of flags --- why is it that flags, which I abhor, always seem to be at the centre of any official celebration? --- but all his activity has not left McGill University indifferent, and for months the ornamental entrance gates to the university have been clad in some substance behind which they have been doing restoration work, a large part of their grassy campus surrounded by their academic buildings has been temporarily paved with gravel, and many of the buildings themselves have  also been clad in plastic material and surrounded by the huge machines that nowadays accompany every construction project. Somewhat diminishing the calming academic aspect of the University grounds.
When I realized that the university was breaking out in new sculptures along the Sherbrooke street frontage,  I took my trusty $100 camera in hand to record what seemed to be the University's taste in  modern art. This is a subject I first became interested in when I was 22, and a fellow-boarder in the rooming house I was staying in took it upon himself to urge on me the beauty of Picasso's distorted human faces. Since up to that moment I had given little thought to anything more grave than rugby, cricket, tennis, running and jumping and various other games, and was making my living mainly as a sports writer, this struck me as bizarre. I soon left my home nation and after living briefly in Australia, India, and Europe (if I may be so bold as to regard Old Blighty as part of that continent, an assertion that its inhabitants don't seem too keen to embrace), I ended up at the age of 29 in Winnipeg where, piqued by this subject, I undertook to write a fortnightly column about the activities of the local art gallery. By this time I had visited the major museums in Italy and France, and had even marvelled at the entries in the 1954 Venice Biennale, one of the global leaders in modern art. To be honest, however, my main memory of that vast exhibition is of the remarkable, haunted  paintings of Italian peasants, done by the brilliant Communist writer and artist, Carlo Levi, whose superb account of his prewar exile by Mussolini, Christ Stopped at Eboli had become, and remains, one of my all-time favorite books. Hardly, however, an exemplar of what is usually thought of as modern art.

So you can see that I approach my current critical task with some trepidation, at times having regarded modern art as pretty wonderful for reasons I can hardly explain, and at other times concluding that it is a massive con job almost on a par with the rubbish written by wine experts about their favorite subject. 


The first piece that I noticed was a strange one, of eight identical crouching figures, arranged in a circle on the side of a slight mound, which, when I first saw them seemed to be guarded by a huge animal, standing nearby. It made me wonder what it could possibly mean. I thought of the myth of Romulus and Remus, the supposed founders of Rome, who were allegedly suckled by a wolf. 
Could that be a clue? When the wolf disappeared after a few days, I had to reject that hypothesis, especially when a few days later still the wolf reappeared at the far end of the street frontage, alone. Nothing to do with the eight figures.

I then noticed that plaques describing the sculptures had been placed around and about, but mysteriously, not connected to any particular statue, leaving us to gather which plaque was meant to refer to which statue --- a task well beyond my intuitive grasp of meaning in modern art, I have to confess. One, however, was almost self-explanatory. It said that Joe Fafard, of Saskatchewan, whom even I know to be one of Canada’s most renowned sculptors, a man who has made life-sized horses, cows and pigs into works of art, was responsible for this dramatic and highly realistic portrait of a wolf, and the inscription gave further insight into his purposes. “The wolf, or mahihkan in Cree, is an animal known for its subservience to hierarchy and its solidarity with its brethren. In fact, when hunting, wolves never feed on their prey until they are able to share it with their pack. This lesson, central to the First Nations cultures, who view the mahihkan as a symbol of empathy towards others, also carries a universal message.” Well, I’ve never heard that before, but I am willing to take their word for it.

But that didn't really help me with the meaning of the eight crouched men, whose intensity, considering the somewhat passive method by which they were gathered together, was rather troubling.I couldn't find on any of the plaques any information about these crouching figures, but a little diligent internet research threw up that they are the work of a Chinese sculptor called Wang Shugang, who, after spending ten years in the Ruhr region of Germany, returned to China in 2000, where he has become part of the successful movement known as Cynical Realism, a movement that makes fun of the earnestness of the socialist realist art of the Communism world, and of the absurdity of Mao Tse Tung and his works. This piece, called The Meeting, has been exhibited in Germany and in Vancouver, and according to the artist it is painted red because 
“… the colour red has multiple cultural meanings in China, historically representing happiness but during the Cultural Revolution it symbolized terror. Today red is the colour of the faded lettering praising Mao on the ceilings of the factories, coats of the Buddhist monks and the colour of wedding decorations”. 

Not far from the Joe Fafard wolf is a huge, sculpture of a woman dancing, which the plaque tells us is by Niki de Sainte Phalle, and is the largest in her well-known series called Nanas. These  “ enormous, curvaceous Nanas celebrated the fecund female form, featuring large breasts and buttocks, splayed limbs, joyous dance postures, and often, black skin,” according to an internet note on her remarkable career as the ultimate in rebellious, feminist artists.  The McGill University plaque says her huge, multicolored figure is “an echo of Matisse” and is a “dazzling voluptuous Venus, bearing the name of the artist’s granddaughter Bloum…the piece celebrates the strength and joy of the liberated woman and emanates hope for a different world.”  I guess it is all in the eye of the beholder. Personally I didn’t think much of it, but when I read about other of her works during a tempestuous life, I found myself  in sympathy with her, and marvelling, as so many onlookers had done, at her biggest Nana, 82 feet long and 30 feet wide, which could be entered through a door-sized vaginal opening between the legs, and contained inside such items as a milk bar inside a breast, and a brain with mechanical working parts.  Funny I had never heard of this woman before, but it is not so surprising that I did not find her Nana on site particularly inspiring, since she was the type to have built a huge tarot garden, and there are few  superstitions I hold in greater contempt than astrology. 

Another Chinese artist represented is Ju Ming, with a large stonework sculpture that looks more like a Henry Moore than what it purports to represent which is  “tai-chi.”  This is the slow-moving exercise routine that people practise in China, even elderly people, and the plaque says of this sculpture that Ju Ming finds inspiration in Cubism and constructivism as well as in the practice of Eastern spirituality, “in this case taichi.” 

“This discipline of the mind and body….frees the energy and increases concentration and relaxation, develops internal fortitude, flexible and flowing rather than physical brute force, which is static. It describes this statue as “the perfect example of balance and harmony, a symbol of the body and spirit attaining fulfilment.” Once again, I’ll take his word for it. It reminds me more of the brutalism architecture (that they are in process of trying to humanize now) that inspired the National Theatre in Ottawa in the 1960s, than it does anything to do with harmony and balance, but it is an effective construct that I am far from scoffing at. This artist’s work is already on display in three locations in Montreal --- at Beaver Lake, Square Victoria and Place d’Armes.
Finally, a Quebec woman artist by the name of Catherine Sylvaine is represented by a curious huge metal funnel, beneath which, so the plaque
so the plaque says, “she invites passers-by to lie down, in the imprint made by the artist’s body on the cement base. The funnel becomes the unusual intercessor between the willing participant and the world.” Thus, she “explores notions of identity and the difference between being and perceiving: lying down on concrete also opens the way to reflecting on the issue of homelessness.” Once again, I will have to take her word for that: the imprint beneath the funnel on the day I saw it was full of water, so one impact of the experience would be that the participant would have  received a wet arse, and, dripping, had to hurry off home to change into something dry



Last of all, I took a picture of a little statue I have grown to like during my wanders through this campus: it is of James McGill, the Scottish merchant founder of the university, sculpted by David Roper-Curzon in 1996 at the instance of the McGill Associates. McGill died in 1813, but he left in his will, "a parcel of land, to the Royal Institution for the Advancement of Learning… to erect and establish a University for the purposes of education and advancement of learning in this province." In 1821 this bequest was activated to begin creation of the important university that exists today in the heart of Montreal, and the sculptor has pictured a man who, I suspect, cannot have been anything

like the real McGill, in this sculptor’s reading a light, small man, his tail-coat blown behind him by a strong wind, hanging on to his hat with one hand, his cane in the other, as he strides into the wilderness in search of furs and wealth. A charming image, especially for one of those old-time robber barons, and perhaps more than he deserved --- except for his foresight in establishing this university.
I have discovered that these sculptures are just part of the 30 that the Montreal Museum of Modern Art has scattered along a kilometre of Sherbrooke street as a contribution to the 375th anniversary of the founding of Montreal.

















 

Thursday, June 22, 2017

My Log 547 June 22 2017: Recalling my most intense heat experiences, in Oklahoma, Arizona and on the great plains of India awaiting the monsoon

A surprising thing I have noticed for years in newspaper and TV weather reports is that very often Phoenix, Arizona seems to be the hottest place on earth. I am reminded of this by the news in recent days that hundreds of flights of smaller jet planes scheduled to leave the Phoenix airport have had to be cancelled because the temperatures have exceeded the maximum operating temperature of the particular brand of plane ---- Bombardier planes are among those affected, apparently --- because in these circumstances, the air is lighter, causing the plane engines to have to do more work just to get the plane off the ground, which could have dangerous consequences.
I suppose everybody must have his or her own story of some extreme heat event: I have three that spring to mind: one is driving in our tiny Austin A30 into Ponca City, a small city in Oklahoma in such heat that I could scarcely keep my hands on the steering wheel, it was so hot. On another occasion I remember coming up from Mexico in that same little car and stopping overnight in a small village called Gila Bend, halfway between Tucson and the Californian border, checking into a motel, then driving a mile or two out into the surrounding desert, where we took our respite from the heat just by sitting there as the day faded into night.
These were both extremely hot places, but they did not rival what has remained for me the quintessential heat experience of my life, that of existing on the great plains of India for the three months  during which the heat built up as we awaited the arrival of the cooling monsoon rains. This was the heat that drove the British administration of India into the hills, where they built some 50 of India’s 80 hill-stations to which they could escape when needed, taking their administrations with them (rather a bold thing to do, I have always thought, for an occupying power). Such places as Simla, in the foothills of the Himalayas, Darjeeling, above Calcutta, Poona, south of and higher than Bombay,  and so on, became summer capitals. Of these I visited from time to time Simla, Pune (or as we splled it in those days, Poona) and Srinigar in the Vale of Kashmir.
My wife and I had somehow found our way to a newly-constructed model village 85 miles north of Delhi, to which, like many people from around India, we were attracted by the extravagant enthusiasm of a man known as the HTA --- the honorary township adviser ---   a businessman for whom the partition of his country had produced an epiphany that caused him to throw up his well-paid job and declare his free availability to the government of India for whatever use they might make of his capacities.
Of course, he was slightly mad, his man, S.K. Dey, but he had the enthusiasm that moves mountains. Ignored at first by the leaders of the new nation, eventually he forced himself to the notice of Pandit Nehru, who made available to him the resources enabling him to take a band of refugees from among the 400,000 languishing on the field of Kurukshetra (site of a famous dialogue recorded in the Bhagavad Gita, one of Hinduism’s sacred books), to carve out from a neglected piece of scrub land, a new village dedicated to this man’s philosophy of Mazdoor Manzil, or the Music of the Muscles, to play his part in uplifting Indian life.
We were given a small adobe house, and left to find our own way to make ourselves useful. My wife, supported by a group of youngish women, started a nursery school; I worked as editor of the English version of  a weekly  news-sheet called Kurukshetra, and doubled as the secretary for a remamrkable man from Calcutta, P.K. Gupta, who was dedicated to ensuring that the co-operative nature of the whole enterprise should be achieved (against the wishes of the government of India bureaucrats who comprised the village administration. They won, unfortunately.)
We arrived there in January and managed to stick it out until June or July, by which time the intense heat (combined with our somewhat minimal supply of suitable food) had caused both of us to fall ill.  The heat increased day by day, relentlessly, with hardly a second of relief. I have no idea what the temperatures reached, but I know that after a day of such intense heat that it caused all work to stop at midday, when everyone retired into  houses and  offices,  whose windows were painted  deep blue in a futile  effort to reject the sun’s rays. By 6 pm, the sun usually fell, but this did not bring any respite: one could put one’s hand on the inside house wall and it felt like the wall of an oven. In other words, the heat continued relentless throughout the night  until about 5.30 am, when just the smidgen of a relief could be felt before the sun rose at 6 am, immediately plunging us back into what felt like the full heat of a normal day again.  It is almost impossible to describe the clutch that the heat had around one’s essential being. Not only I felt it: everyone felt it. In the colonial days, only the British were able to escape to the hills, callously leaving the local population to struggle through the heat.
I remember one day when a few drops of rain occurred, and we all went running outside like madmen to feel the cooling rain on our skins, but it was a false alarm. It was not part of the monsoon, not yet.
We decided, my wife and I, that if we wanted to survive at all, we had better make for the hills. So, to the accompaniment of a chorus of goodwill cries from the locals, we climbed on to a train, headed for Kashmir. We happened to arrive there in the middle of a political crisis --- one that has been  going on ever since --- and were almost the only tourists. So we had our pick of houseboats on Dal Lake, complete with servants, food and supplies, and in these ideal conditions our diarrhoea cleared up, and we began to regain our health. We had managed to book a berth on a ship leaving Bombay in September, and by the time we emerged back on to the plain, the monsoon was in full swing. The very minute we hit the heat, our diarrhoea returned. Mine disappeared during the voyage to England, but my wife was diagnosed with some sort of tropical ailments that lasted for a few weeks longer. Before getting on to the ship in Bombay, we had to  undergo the remarkable experience of walking that city’s streets in full monsoon mode, and I can tell you that to search for lavatories in which to relieve one’s diarrhoea in 1951 in Bombay was an experience I wouldn’t wish on anyone.
I have always thought, since then, that to await the arrival of the monsoon in the great plains of India must be, absolutely must be, the most intense heat experience one could ever undergo.  And I never hear a weather report detailing the monsoon rains without thinking of the people of India, millions and millions of them, struggling every year to make it through. Better them than me, is all I can say on that.